The lodge was like a mirage, and we could practically hear angels singing as we walked in. Real mattresses! Hot water! Each individual chalet (I got my own as the perk of being the only boy) had a veranda that looked out on an artificial watering hole the lodge created to lure the animals as close to the resort as possible, as well as an open concept rain shower (which means it was private and luxurious- but most definitely outside). A family of monkeys lives on site and I saw one particularly cheeky one eating a bag of doritos on the wall next to my room as I checked in. We all basically turned into vegetarians because the buffet-style meals had a salad bar, and we have all forgotten what lettuce looks like. As we chewed our rabbit food, we watched zebras and elephants frolic in what little water exists here in the dry season.
Each morning at 06:30, our driver- an experienced tracker with a gold tooth named Ernest- would call us for breakfast before heading out on a three hour drive of the park, tracking whatever was close or we requested to see. It sounds funny, but after the first couple of hours, elephants become almost commonplace. We were lucky enough to see cheetahs, lions, rhino, zebra, various types of antelope, impalas, kudu, ostriches, warthogs, water buffalo, and a pack of adorbale, yet apparently deadly wild dogs. These German Shepherd-looking pups can clean an enture antelope to the bone is fewer than ten minutes. I decided to not attempt to pet it. The cats were playful and rolled around on their backs to catch the waning winter sun- they were so cute that you almost forget that they can literally rip your face off.
The amazing thing about all this was we quite literally drove within ten feet of most of these creatures. Because they are so accustomed to the safari trucks, they hardly even pay attention to us. I wonder if some of the more exotic animals feel like celebrities must when the paparazzi won't leave them alone...
We went on a sunset game drive in the afternoons, stopping halfway to have 'sundowners' (happy hour) somewhere in the bush with a lovely view of the sunset. With a whiskey in your hand and the sun low across the African savannah, it's hard not to feel like the luckiest person in the world. The second night we had a bush dinner outdoors, with big fires burning and blankets to keep us warm. We tried some of the local game, like kudu, oxtail, and antelope. And veggies. So. many. veggies. On Sunday morning we were dragged kicking and screaming out of the lodge, piling into cars and waving goodbye to a family of baboons that seemed to be almost staged at the exit of the park.
Seeing these creatures in person is one of the most awe-inspiring things I have ever experienced. However, while those within the bounds of these 70,000 hectares are more of less protected (some poachers still get in), more than 100 elephants are killed in Africa every day- just for their tusks. Rhinos are even worse off, and if something isn't done soon, there won't be any of them left to see.
I am so blessed to have had this experience; it is one I will never forget and hope to repeat someday with my own family.
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