Saturday, July 5, 2014

Africa Light- Part II

Botswana is about the size of Texas wth the population of less than the DC metro area. Basically, it's extraordinarily empty. Its capital, Gaborone (pronounced "Habaroney") has fewer than half a million residents. At first glance, it doesn't look that much different than the States. There are shopping malls, cafes, highways, streetlights... all the trappings of a modern economy. On the road from the airport to our apartment building, I saw  billboards promoting supermarkets, new homes, and wealth management services. It certainly doesn't look like what might spring to mind when you first think "Africa"

Our flat, as they say, is quite nice, really. It's got running water, wifi, and even a pool. After Bangladesh, this place feels like the Ritz. However, there are moments when I remember this is Africa after all, like when there is an electrified fence and a six-foot wall of concrete separating us from the street. But then I look down the street at the KFC and I get confused all over again.

The first few days were spent getting to know Gaborone and adjusting to Botswana. We went grocery shopping and snickered at the funny chip flavoUrs (beef stew Lay's, anyone?), exchanged money, and  did touristy things like the national museum, parliament, and a game drive at the local wildlife sanctuary (I saw giraffes!). Before Botswana was a thing, it was a British "protectorate" (NOT a colony, which is important to know, lest you piss off someone here). The few people who lived here were San, or bushmen, who lived (and still do) a hunter/gatherer lifestyle. Botswana only became a country in the '60s, and there was no war for independence. There's been no wars at all actually- civil, foreign, or otherwise.

 No joke- almost the day after independence, the new government said "oh, hey England, this is awkward...but the largest store of diamonds in the world is somewhere over here....so, sorry". However, unlike some countries which might hoard the income at for a select few, Botswana uses the diamond income for development, education, and universal healthcare- they even provide expensive HIV drugs to anyone who needs it free of charge.

All in all, this is Africa "lite" so far. This isn't to say Botswana doesn't have a lot of problems to deal with- just as any country. When we start our work in earnest on Monday, I am sure I will have a chance to see much more than just the shiny exterior. 


No comments:

Post a Comment